What was Asakusa Okuyama? Edo’s Premier Entertainment District

◻︎ What Is Okuyama? In the Edo period, people gathered here to relax, be entertained, and follow the latest trends.

Hidden just beyond Senso-ji Temple lay another side of Asakusa—

a lively district known as Okuyama.

When people think of Asakusa today, many picture Kaminarimon Gate, Nakamise Street, and the main hall of Senso-ji Temple.

However, in the Edo period, Asakusa held another major attraction beyond the act of worship itself.

That place was Okuyama.

Okuyama was the name given to the entertainment area that spread out behind the grounds of Senso-ji Temple

(whose official mountain name is Kinryūzan Senso-ji).

It was not a formal place name, but rather a term that naturally arose as people referred to

the area located “deeper inside” the temple precincts along the route of pilgrimage.

◻︎ Why Was It Called “Okuyama”?

In the Edo period, Buddhist temples were commonly referred to as “mountains” (yama).

Just as Mount Hiei, Mount Kōya, and Mount Tōei (Kan’ei-ji) carried mountain names,

Senso-ji was known as Kinryūzan.

A typical pilgrimage to Asakusa followed this route:

Kaminarimon Gate → Nakamise Street → Main Hall (Kannon)

After completing their prayers, many visitors continued further on.

The area lying beyond the main hall—deep within the “mountain” of Kinryūzan—

came to be known as Okuyama, meaning “the inner mountain.”

◻︎ Where Was Okuyama Located?

Based on various historical sources, Okuyama is believed to have been located

in the area extending from the west to northwest of the current main hall of Senso-ji Temple,

where it once flourished as a bustling entertainment district.

This can also be confirmed through the Edo-period bird’s-eye view reconstructions created by architectural historian Hiroaki Tachikawa.

Using Meiji-era military survey maps, historical documents, old maps, and ukiyo-e prints,

Tachikawa meticulously reconstructed Edo’s urban landscape using three-point perspective.

When this Edo-period bird’s-eye view is carefully aligned and overlaid with modern Google Maps,

it becomes clear that today’s Okuyama Omairimachi, Asakusa West Sando Shopping Street, Hanayashiki Street,

and the area around Asakusa Hanayashiki correspond precisely to what was once Okuyama.

Further confirmation comes from ukiyo-e artist Utagawa Hiroshige,

who created a woodblock print titled “Asakusa Kinryūzan Okuyama Hanayashiki.”

The title itself shows that Hanayashiki was recognized in the Edo period as being part of Okuyama.

◻︎ The Front for Faith, the Back for Entertainment

One of Asakusa’s defining characteristics was the close coexistence of faith and entertainment.

The area from Kaminarimon Gate to the main hall served as a sacred space for worship,

where people prayed to Kannon, the Bodhisattva of Mercy.

By contrast, Okuyama was a lively world of entertainment, filled with sideshow theaters,

acrobatic performances, mechanical curiosities, animal acts, teahouses, and street stalls.

Pray first, then enjoy yourself—

this unique combination was a key reason why Asakusa became one of Edo’s most popular destinations.

◻︎ Okuyama Visited by Shoguns and Daimyo

Okuyama was not merely a playground for common townspeople.

Historical records show that shoguns and feudal lords also took interest in the area.

Sources such as Buke Nenpyō and Fujiokaya Nikki frequently describe the lively scenes

that accompanied shogunal visits to Senso-ji Temple.

In particular, during the reigns of:

- Tokugawa Ienari, the 11th shogun

- Tokugawa Ieyoshi, the 12th shogun

visits to Asakusa became regular events for the shogunal family.

Records note that security and maintenance of both the temple grounds and Okuyama

were carefully arranged on these occasions.

Diaries and essays also tell us that daimyo and hatamoto (direct retainers of the shogun)

often stopped to observe Okuyama’s entertainments during their pilgrimages.

◻︎ Okuyama Through the Eyes of Cultural Figures

Okuyama left a strong impression on Edo-period writers and artists as well.

The author Takizawa Bakin described the crowds stretching from the Senso-ji precincts into Okuyama

as among the largest in Edo.

Popular writers such as Jippensha Ikku and Shikitei Sanba also used the scenery of Asakusa and Okuyama

as settings for their illustrated books and satirical works.

For them, Okuyama was an essential stage for depicting the customs, humor, and trends of Edo society.

◻︎ “New Okuyama”: Memories Preserved Today

Today, on the west side of Senso-ji’s main hall, near the entrance to Okuyama Omairimachi

and Asakusa West Sando, lies an area known as “New Okuyama.”

Here, memorial monuments honor the showmen, performers, and entertainers

who supported Asakusa’s vibrant popular culture.

These monuments quietly preserve the memory of Okuyama’s past.

Although the original Okuyama has changed in form,

its spirit and legacy continue to live on in modern Asakusa.

◻︎ Walking Through Okuyama Today

After passing through Kaminarimon Gate, strolling along Nakamise Street,

and completing your visit to Senso-ji Temple,

take a few extra steps to the west and northwest.

Even today, the area around Okuyama Omairimachi, West Sando, and Hanayashiki Street

remains lively with shops and visitors.

This was once the place where shoguns, daimyo, writers, and townspeople alike gathered—

a place filled with laughter, surprise, conversation, and new trends: Okuyama.

To experience Asakusa more deeply,

try exploring the area with “Okuyama” in mind.

You may discover a side of Asakusa that feels both familiar and entirely new.

【References & Related Links】

• Senso-ji Temple - Wikipedia (JP)

• Thesis: Asakusa as seen from the English-speaking world, and the West as seen from Asakusa (J-STAGE / British and American Culture)

• Japanese Landmarks in Woodblock Prints and Photographs: "Asakusa" (National Diet Library)

• Bird's-eye View of Edo: "Senso-ji Temple and Environs" (Edo-Tokyo Bird's-eye View Gallery)

• Asakura Musei, "Misemono Kenkyu" (Research on Spectacle Shows) (CiNii Books)